domingo, 8 de febrero de 2015

The Drugs, the Dealers and the Suppliers.

Surfing is like a drug. From the moment you caught your very first wave, you were hooked. Once you improved and started to surf quality waves there was no going back.The speed and the adrenaline, its so addictive.
The surfing bug has sunk its hooks in. You’re doomed now, to a life of addiction. Having a good surf is like a high, its good while it lasts, but once it’s over you need more. It’s a constant search for a higher high, for better waves, and the only way to find them?
surf travel
surfing is like a drug
Travel. Travel is like the dealer. It’s how we find the highs. The constant search for waves is consuming. It has the ability to control the way you live. Surfers put a lot of time into finding waves, but aren’t always rewarded. The dealer is out. That brings us to the supplier.
surf is like a drug
Of course, mother nature is the supplier. More specifically, the ocean and the wind. The supplier is a temperamental son of a bitch. No one wants to piss her off. The supplier is capable of making our lives totally fricken awesome, or if she’s not in a good mood, pretty bloody average. Everyone relies on her. She has a big job and she does it well (most of the time).
She is our one and only original source.
But there is always something to ruin the fun.
morning surf australia
longboarders australia
Rehab. As high hunters, we have to face it sometime, its inevitable. It’s a system that is designed to bring us back into line. To stop having fun and living in a dream. To drag us back into reality. We know it as the daily grind. We’re talking about work, money and commitments. Horrible things that they are. It’s depressing just thinking about them. But rehab doesn’t last forever, as soon as there is an opportunity to escape, we do. Then we’re back to the beginning again. The drugs, the dealer and the supplier.
surf drug

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